Where we are today, Salaverry, Peru. The port city near Trujillo.
Historical/Background Info:
We are docked in Salaverry, which is port town close near Trujillo. Trujillo is located on the banks of the Moche River on the northwestern coast of Peru. The archeological history suggests that the area was occupied as early as 4700 BC. There are ruins and artifacts here from the Moche civilization (dating from 100 AD to 900 AD) as well as from the Chimu civilization (dating from 900 AD to 1470). The Incas ruled from then until the Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1534. A wall around Trujillo was completed in 1689 to keep the pirates out. In the latter half of the 1600’s and 1700’s the city suffered from droughts, floods, pestilence, and several eathquakes. Trujillo declared its independence from Spain in 1820, and as such, is considered the “First Independent City of Peru”. In late 1800’s the wall around the city was torn down so it could expand.
Trujillo is now a modern city with a population of nearly 100,000. It is an agricultural, commercial, and transport center. Due to irrigation of the land from rivers, this area produces sugar cane, asparagus, artichokes, peppers, avacados, mangos, and other crops. There are many small businesses that make shoes and other leather products. Tourism is also a major industry here due to the city being close to important ruins from the Moche and Chimu civilizations. We will be touring “Chan Chan” today which is the world’s largest city built from adobe. Other important site is the “Temple of the Sun and Moon”. It took 50 million adobe bricks to construct the “Temple of the Moon”. The city has several museums with artifacts from ancient civilizations. Climate wise Trujillo is called “the city of everlasting spring” because of its sunny and pleasant weather. Again, influenced by the Humboldt Current, they experience low rainfall and temps between 60 and 85 degrees.
What We Did Today:
It only rains on average 2 days per year. There was a shower here this morning.
Small fishing boats in the little harbor.
As the Captain used the bow thrusters to dock this morning he churned up mud from bottom of harbor.
This dredge pipe was full of birds to greet our arrival.
We sailed into Salaverry this morning at 8:00. My tour today (Rebecca decided not to go) was called "Chan Chan City of Palaces", a four hour tour that departed at 8:00. The tour bus headed out and went through the city of Trujillo on the way to two archaeological sites north of the city. We drove past some sugar cane fields which is their main export here. They also export the most asparagus of any country in the world. It is very arid along the coast so they have to irrigate the fields. We arrived first at a place called "the Dragon Temple". Because the walls were made of mud they carved designs depicting animals and their life. This is one of the best preserved sites in the world and was built over 1300 years ago. The people back then did not use steps but rather used ramps. No one knows why. Next stop was the amazing Chan Chan (Sun Sun) City. Chan-Chan is the largest construction of mud in the world. It was once the capital of the Chimu civilization who were the predecessors of the ancient Incas. Chan Chan is virtually a city of palaces that you need to see to believe. About 100,000 people lived here 1300 years ago and the city was about 10 square miles in size. Totally made from mud but did have some wood for roofs. The roofs are now gone and they have built some protective roofs to help preserve the site. We went into the main palace where there was only one entrance to it. This is where the ruler lived and government was also inside this part of the city. It was 400 feet wide and 600 feet long surrounded by a thick wall. There were designs carved into the walls here also. Mostly dealing with the ocean, ocean animals, birds, and nets made of mud. The buildings range in age from 900 to 1470 AD. This place was fascinating and my photos can not do it justice. It is a truly amazing place.
Pretty low standard of living here. It's very arid.
The people here are very poor. In fact the minimum wage is $300 per month. The lowest in South America. Most of the houses I saw were small shacks at best.
Monument to the Moche civilization.
The streets of Trujillo were actually pretty clean but on the highway outside the city along the ocean was like a dump. Garbage all along the highway.
Little taxis
Follow are photos of the Dragon Temple. Designs are carved into these walls.
Believe it or not this carving is of a dragon.
It rarely rains but if it does the cover the wall to protect and help preserve them.
There are 365 of the men figures around the top, all going in the same direction. It is believed this may have been their calendar.
Ramps were used back then. No steps.
Sugar cane field
Sign for "Chan-Chan", largest city made of mud in the world.
Visiting one of the temples in the 10 square mile complex of Chan Chan.
This is the only entrance to the palace and government area.
Entirely made of mud and little pebbles over 1700 years ago. Mud bricks in middle of walls then covered with mud.
This is the larger of two plazas inside the walls. This raised platform is where sacrifices (some human) were made.
The carvings in this wall depict sea otters at the bottom, ocean waves above them, and sky at top.
Sea otters
Covered now to protect the site
1700 years ago the place was covered with a wood roof. It was burned many years ago when the Moche people became disenchanted with the ruler.
This design is signifying fishing nets.
More fishing net carvings
Second, smaller of the two plazas
This shows the thickness of the wall around this palace.
One of the roads within the palace walls
Water reservoir 1700 years ago that was fed by a spring in the palace. Now just a pond.
Reservoir wall. It used to be full of water.
The thick walls. This shows the small mud bricks making up the walls.
This is area made up of small shopping stalls where they used to buy and trade goods. 64 total stalls. The walls were much taller and covered with wood roofs back then.
Mountain in background is 6000 feet high.
Wall is 500 feet long
Shopping stalls on pier by our ship. Yes, Rebecca did get off to do some shopping and got some Alpaca sweaters.
I got this "thing". He's going on my bar at home.
Well, it's now 4:00 pm and a pleasant 78F outside. At 6:00 the Farewell Reception begins with another Regent tradition, the "Krew Kapers" show. It is a show put on by some of the crew members singing and performing traditional dances from the countries they come from. It is ALWAYS a big hit with us passengers. Tonight's dress is formal optional so I will be wearing my dinner jacket and doing another James Bond imitation. We have been invited to join Andreas, the ship's General Manager, and Daniela, the Food & Beverage Director for dinner. This is a real honor for us. We have know both of them for a few years now, and of course, sailed with them previously. Sadly, Daniela will be leaving us in Lima for her vacation. Entertainer after dinner is the pianist again so won't be going to that show.
At 6:00 pm we will be sailing for our next port, Lima, Peru. Will arrive there tomorrow, Saturday, at noon. That is the last day of this cruise segment. For many of the passengers this is the end of their cruise. They will disembark on Sunday morning and we will have new ones embarking that afternoon.
"THE END"
